To me, the first thing I think of when I think of a Coffaro wine is
not so much a specific taste aspect as it is Dave as master blender.
There are those, of course, who seem to think that the best wine can only
ever be one grape from one vineyard, but these are obviously people unfamiliar
with Bordeaux! Just as I think the magic of Bordeaux is a combination
of the specific terroir and the bringing together of complementary flavors
from multiple grapes to create a whole that is better than any parts, I
think Dave achieves what he does because of his mastery of blending.
Unlike
Bordeaux, where there is a relatively common concept of the desired
result, Dave works a much broader palette, focusing at one point on bringing
a predominantly Zin base to perfect expression, then shifting to another
concept altogether for the Estate Cuvee or whatever. Unlike wines
and spirits that are blended for consistency, I see each of these as pursuing
an individual unique concept, a concept coming in some cases from the predominant
grape and some cases from the character of a set of grapes (e.g., Estate
vs. Neighbors), but in each case working with the core concept to find
a combination which allows each to become the best expression of that concept.
> From this core, I think other qualities follow.
* Minimal new oak because that would mask the qualities of the grapes
themselves.
* Wine characterized by a high degree of balance, even when young
* Well rounded wines with flavor at all points in the tasting
* Rich wines (you don't have a sound system like that and not turn
it up!)
=========================================================================
Thomas Mercer-Hursh, Ph.D
email: thomas@cintegrity.com
Computing Integrity, Inc.
sales: 510-233-9329
550 Casey Drive - Cypress Point
support: 510-233-9327
Point Richmond, CA 94801-3751
fax: 510-233-6950
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